Sunday, November 2, 2014

MSp 21 - Seville: Gypsies, Bulls, and Macarena . . .


The  Flamenco  Museum
helps  set  the  stage  for  the  Dance  Form  we  will  see  later   
Costumes  .   Hats  .   Shoes  .  Types of Music  .  Guitars  .  Castanets





Portraits  .  Posters   of  notables  who  brought   'FLAMENCO'   to  the  World  Stage





Those  willing to  fork out   60  Euros   can  take  a  1  hour  Lesson  prior  to  the  show 
About  a  dozen  young  people  can't  resist   learning  some
Story - Telling  foot  work   .   Rhythmic  hand  claps   .   Clashing  Castanet   sound  skills   . . 
( in  a  small  classroom  off  to  one  side  of  the  tiny  Auditorium )





The  Guitar  Player   is  the  constant  backdrop  to  the  entire  show





MALES   move  with  Strength  and  Power  dramatized  with  periods  of  Silence





Every  Position  expresses  HER   Story    .     The   CASTANETS    accentuate  it  further





We  used  to  have  a   pair  of  . .   Castanets
We  never  learned  to  put  them  to  work  like  this  gal  does !





Layers  of   RUFFLED  TRAIN   add  both  Color  and  Drama  to  her  Moves





We  may  not  speak  his   Language   . .   but
we're  pretty  sure  he's  trying  to  make  himself  understood  . . 





 Audience  is  'warmed  up'  emotionally.         Dancers  are  'dripping' !





Seville's     Royal  Bullring    . . .    "Plaza  de  Toros" 
 is  the    " Bullfight   Capital   of   the  World " !  
. .  ( view  from  the  top  of   Giralda  Tower )  . .  
Notice  the  Ring's  exterior  wall   is  completely  sealed  and  surrounded  by  Residences





( Inside  the  Bullring )   . .   Our  Guide  points  out  . .

5  Gated  Entry Points

One  for the   3  Matadors   ( each  does  two  fights )  
One  for the    Bulls   who  will  participate  
One   leads  to the   Hospital   ( on site )  
One  for   Dignitaries   and  Royalty
One  thru  which  the   Dying  Bull   will  be  taken  to  market  for dinner    

14,000   Spectators  fill  this  Arena  
compared  to    25,000  in  Madrid     .     45,000+   in  Mexico City





Museum  Memories :   Before 'Rings) Bullfights  were  held  in  Street  INTERSECTIONS





( Like Opera )  there  is  a    SEASON    for  this  Sport
SUNDAYS   in   May  and  June
On   EASTER  day  ( ! ) 
Special  Days  like   Corpus Christi   ( BODY   of   CHRIST   Day !)  
APRIL   FAIR     ( daily  following   Easter )  
September   during   ST  MICHAEL  FAIR  !
 ( That's  worth  some  discussion ! )





Just  before   the   Bullfighter   enters  through  this   GATE   . .  




. .   he   steps  into   this    CHAPEL    to   PRAY   TO
. .   the   Virgin  of  the  Macarena   . .   ( "Patron  Saint  of "  Bullfighters )
 . .  and   to    Jesus  del  Gran  Poder  . .  ( Christ  of  "All  Power" )





Notice   ONE  missing  'EAR'   cut off   ( Awarded  to  Matador )   "If  the  fight  is  really  Good" ! 
 If   the  fight  is   Excellent   . .   TWO   EARS   are  cut  off    and   Awarded !!   
If   the  fight  is   Outstanding   . .   TWO   EARS   Plus   the  TAIL !!!    

Bull  Tail  Stew  is  a  cultural  delicacy  here ! )





 Famous  Matador   . .    killed  in  1947  
 SEVILLE  was  so  Appalled  they  put  the  Mother  of  the  Bull   to  Death
so  she  couldn't  produce  another  deadly  animal   

( Young  girls  poster  their  rooms  with  handsome  Matadors ! )





( One  thing  leads  to  another . . . )
Patron  Saint  of  Bull  Fighters " . .  (??)       Let's  go  check  that  out . . .

STATUES  . .   of  the  ' MACARENA '  and  ' CHRIST  of  ALL  POWER ' 
( after  many  moves )   are  now  at  home  here   . .  in  the
Basilica  of  the  Macarena 

     ( Get  here  via   'Amor  de  Dios'   =   " Love  of  God "  Street !  ) 




CHRIST  of   ALL   POWER  . . .  
One  of  the  two  most  important  floats  in  Seville's  Holy Week  Celebrations 
( huge  event  all  over  Spain  . .  none  more  grand  than  here  in  'Sevilla' )  
Personally,  I  love  the  skilled   expression  . .  capturing
  Knowing   .    Understanding   .   Love   .   Forgiveness
And  GRACE    ( HIS  free  GIFT '  to  mankind  because  of   what   HE   did  FOR  " US " !    
The  Choice  is  Ours  . .  Accept  or  Reject )




LA  MACARENA
  Patron  SAINT    .   "Weeping  VIRGIN"   .   symbol  of  " RESURRECTION "
 on  the  other  of  the  two  most  important  floats
She's  named  for  . .   5   Crystal   Teardrops   . .   trickling  down  her  cheeks  
 . .   with  ambiguous  Smile  Cry   . .
. .   Worshippers  project  . .  select  meaning  from  their  own emotions  
( THIS  portrayal  of  MARY  is  MOST  CHERISHED  . .  the  "Favorite"   
WHY  . .   THIS   ONE ? 
Because   she  knows  all  our  problems      .    We've  been  confiding  in  her  for  centuries.   
 To   us,   she   is    HOPE"




The    Museum  at  The Basilica   of  the  Macarena  
allows  visitors  to  SEE  the  famous  Floats   Up - Close - and - Personal !    
Pontius  Pilate  .   the  Guards  .   many  Others
Where  is  Jesus  the  Christ ?       He  should  be   . .   in  front  and  center




We  find   " HIM "  . .   inside  the  Basilica's  Sanctuary





La  Macarena  
Too  spends  the  calendar  year  inside  the  Basilica  that  bears  
her  Name  and  . .  its  Significance  . .   
"La  Esperanza"   . .   Virgin   of  . .  HOPE




Picture  Seville  . .  during   Holy  Week  
60  Processions    .   100  Religious  Floats 
Different  Neighborhoods  .  Different  Days  .  Parading  Themed  Floats  throughout  the  city
Re - telling  each  Pre - Easter  . .   Events  leading  to  Christ's  Crucifixion 
Culminating  in   His  Resurrection  Victory  over  Death  on   EASTER  Sunday !





First  come  the "Penitents" . .  seeking  God's  Forgiveness
Publicly  .   'Anonymously'  
Identity  Protected  by   Pointy  Hooded  Robes  . .  Tradition  going  back  to  the  1600s )




Some   Penitents   are   Silent  . .
  Others  Beat  Drums  .   Play  in  Brass  Bands  .   Sing  Sorrowfully     
They  often  carry  a  big   Cross  .  Candles   and  . .  or   Incense  
( Reminder  of    the  'sweet'  desirability  of   'Pardon'  and  ' Forgiveness '  ! )




The   Passion Float   always  comes  First . . . continuing  the  drama  day  by  day
Being  Whipped   .   Appearing  before  Pilate   .   Carrying  the  Cross  to  His  ( foretold )  Execution




The    CROWDS    are  huge   . .    What's a little one to do ?      Lean  IN   . .   Look  FAR 



Armored  Costumes   and   Feathered  Hats   are  displayed   in  the  Museum . . 




. .       the   Roman  Footwear   too      . .




The  Museum  displays  the   Ceremonial   Banners    and    Scepters   . .




And  you  can  see  there  the  Macarena's  . .
6 - Pound  Gold  Crown  . .  "Halo" 




The   Float  carrying  Christ  of  the  Judgment '  weighs   more  than    Ton 
. .    The  ' Macarena '  Float   weighs   less    . . 




Every    Good  Friday    Each  Float  is  Carried  by  30  to  50   Men 
Midnight   until  about   2:00  in  the  afternoon   . .  
. .    ' Shifts ' of  Carriers  . .  Rotate  every  20  Minutes  . . 




People  . .  Pilgrims  Wait  and  Watch   for  Hours  . .  Clapping  . .  Weeping  . .  Throwing  Roses
Then  the  Last  Float    . .   The  Finale 
The  Macarena    . .    Representative  of   . .   Abundant   Life - Giving   HOPE   
. .     Reminder  of     . .  
Resurrection   VICTORY   over   DEATH !





Across  the  river  .  we  LINGER  a  long  time  .  REFLECTING  on  the  ANDALUSIAN  People





..    their   Traditions   ..   their   Pride   ..   their   Devotion   ..   their   Inspiration  ..
to  us   ..   and  to   ..   each  other !
We  bask  in  the  ..   Ambience   and   we  feel  the  ..   Soul
Thank  You,   Andulasia !




_____


Rusty  and  Wrinkles  are  watching  the  Calendar   . . 
It's  time  to  begin   Closing  the  Loop   of  our  Itinerary  
by  turning  south  toward    ( mainland )    Europe's  Southern - Most  Point,  Tarifa  town  .. 
before  crossing  the  ..   Strait  of  Gibraltar   ..  once  again
returning  to  Casablanca  ( our  Starting  Point )  via  Morocco's  current  Capital,  Rabat


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2 comments:

  1. We had a chance to be in Guatemala during the Semana Santa where they did similar floats and processions during holy week. It would be very interesting to be in Seville to see the processions.

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  2. Raquel wouldn't talk about bull fights. She was against it completely, even though so many like to watch. I think you have so much to reflect upon from this trip. It sounds very full of life. Europeans live well, it seems.
    Are you heading home soon? I thought you left on Nov. 6th, grandma's birthday, but maybe you have extended your trip?
    Happy Travels,
    Connie

    ReplyDelete